Ladakh – What's Next?

Places to Visit in November in North India

27th September 202220th March 2025Posted in SaffronStays DiariesTagged cottages, dehradun, family holidays, Homestays, Jaipur, Ladakh, Luxury homestays, Manali, Near Delhi, Road trips, saffronstays, shimla, Weekend getaways, weekend trips, Winter season

As a tourist, you may choose from a wide variety of landscapes in North India, from snowy mountains and verdant valleys and plains to waterfalls and lakes and even deserts. There are a wide variety of tourist places for vacations in November, from chilling out at a hill station to visiting historical sites, sampling local cuisine, engaging in extreme sports, or seeking spiritual enlightenment at a sacred location. Discover the finest of Northern India with our must-see places to visit in North India, this November.

Ranikhet, Uttarakhand

Ranikhet is a famous tourist destination because of its abundance of interesting attractions. Lovely picnic areas include Ashiyana Park and Rani Jheel. Apples, peaches, apricots and many other alpine fruits are grown as orchids in the world-famous Chaubatia Gardens. Ranikhet is in close proximity to several important religious sites, including the Ram Mandir, Mankameshwar, Jhoola Devi and Haidakhan Temple. This hidden gem is incomplete without SaffronStays Glasshouse Celeste, Ranikhet, a three-bedroom pet-friendly Signature homestay in Uttarakhand, located 4500 sq ft above sea level and flaunting sweeping views of the snow-capped Himalayan peaks and many activities.

Dehradun, Uttarakhand

Dehradun, the capital of Uttarakhand, is one of the most popular travel destinations in the country, thanks to its location at the foot of the Garhwal Himalayas. Dehradun is packed with interesting attractions. The city truly does cater to all tastes. Dehradun is home to a wide variety of tourist attractions. Some of them include the Robbers Cave, Chopta-Tungnath, Doon Valley, Kalsi, Tibetan Market, Har ki Dun, Rajaji National Park, Deer Park, Maldevta and Shikhar Falls. The Jim Corbett National Park is around 2 hours from Dehradun Airport.

At the best accommodations in Dehradun, like SaffronStays Paradise Pines, Dehradun, SaffronStays Doon Hideout, Dehradun and SaffronStays Doon Valley View, Dehradun, you may wake up to a panoramic view of lush gardens and relax in the evenings while taking in a deep breath of the clean air that flows from them.

Raison, Himachal Pradesh

The breathtaking town of Raison is found in Himachal Pradesh state. Situated on the Beas River, it is roughly 16 km from Kullu. Raison, located at an altitude of 1433 m, is well-known for its expansive camping sites. The months of April through June make it one of the best times to go rafting in the area. Other tourist places include Jana Waterfall, International Roerich Memorial Trust and Dhakpo Shedrupling Monastery. Tourists may enjoy a unique and exciting riverfront resort experience at SaffronStays Snowdrop, Raison to add to their comfort.

Manali, Himachal Pradesh

Manali, located in the northern Indian state of Himachal Pradesh, is one of the best places to visit for backpackers and newlyweds. Located on the Beas River, it serves as a jumping-off point for explorations of nearby locations like Solang Valley, Kothi and Gulaba. The town and its most-visited attractions, like the Hadimba Temple, the Manu Temple, the Tibetan Monasteries, and Jogini Falls, have a lot more to offer than just adventure. If you are looking for accommodations for small groups, large groups, or as a couple, SaffronStays The Amlyn, Manali, SaffronStays Monarch Manor, Manali, and SaffronStays Kesar Villa, Naggar are ideal stays for a quiet getaway from all the hustle and bustle.

Shimla, Himachal Pradesh

The lovely hill town of Shimla is perched above seven of the prominent hills that make up the Himalayas. It is one of the best vacation places in North India. Imagine yourself waking up in the fresh air of the Himalayas, with the sun gently caressing your skin as it asks you to meet at the little brook that is located across the deep trees of cedar and pine. Locations in and around the town that are popular with tourists include the Ridge, Kufri, Jakhoo Temple and Summer Hill, among others.

SaffronStays Hardy’s Hideaway, Shimla is a traditional ‘pahadi’ home in a picturesque valley surrounded by fruit orchards. Only 3 hours from Shimla Airport, this four-bedroom ancestral home shines like a light to city slickers who are in search of a tranquil retreat.

Bhimtal, Uttarakhand

Bhimtal is a renowned tourist attraction in the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand. Indulge in some waterborne thrills like boating and kayaking on your next vacation here. Bhimtal’s second major draw is an aquarium, which you could see if you take a boat ride around the lake and stop at the island in the middle. Bhimtal, in contrast to the bustling Nainital, is a town free from all the hustle and bustle.

Owing to the impressive architecture, the Bhimeshwar Temple, the Karkotaka Temple and the Folk Culture Museum are some other must-sees for every traveller visiting Bhimtal. The distinctive structure of SaffronStays Fourest, Bhimtal contributes to the country-style allure of your vacation escape. The homes are constructed out of bamboo, providing guests with the opportunity to have the quintessential homestay experience while surrounded by natural beauty.

Jaipur, Rajasthan

You may enjoy authentic Rajasthani food and go shopping in Jaipur’s lively bazaars and visit the city’s famous attractions, including the Amber Fort, Jaigarh Fort and Hawa Mahal. Visitors can also try a thrilling camel safari across the stunning Thar Desert. Johari Bazar and Bapu Bazar are all filled to the brim with embroidered leather shoes, decorated handicrafts, royal blue crockery, vivid tie-and-dye scarves, camel hide items and jazzy handcrafted garments. The colourful culture of Rajasthan is yours to explore at SaffronStays Jaipura Garh, Jaipur where you can enjoy Rajasthani hospitality and cuisine with luxury and comfort.

Ranthambore, Rajasthan

There are many exciting places to visit in Ranthambore. Ranthambore National Park is a great place to see tigers and other animals because it is a protected area. The setting, the vegetation and the regal remnants of the majesty fort make this nature reserve the best in the country. Therefore, not only is Ranthambore the greatest place in India to go on a tiger safari, but it also exemplifies the state’s illustrious past. As an added bonus, nearby tourist places like the Trinetra Ganesh Temple and the Ranthambore Fort are situated not far from the national park and can be easily visited.

Auli, Uttarakhand

Nearby tourist places to visit from Dehradun is this hill station. Auli is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna, including deciduous and evergreen trees such as deodars, oaks, coniferous and pine woods, and meadows. Places to visit in Auli include Nanda Devi, Dunagiri and Mana Parvat, which can all be seen from their high slopes. This hill station is home to a variety of interesting sights. In terms of popularity amongst visitors, the ropeway stands out as the clear winner.

It’s the longest and tallest in India, and maybe all of Asia too, so you can take in some stunning panoramas of the snow-capped Himalayas as you go. Auli also features one of the highest artificial lakes in the world. It is home to several beautiful lakes, including Chattrakund, Chenab and others. Auli’s reputation as India’s premier ski destination has earned it the title ‘skiing capital of India’.”

Ladakh

Historically a Buddhist state, Ladakh is characterised by its breathtakingly rugged landscape. The beauty of Ladakh may be seen in various places, including its arid mountains, spectacularly topped granite outcrops, gorgeous gompas, meditative mani walls, and multi-hued flags. Ladakh, one of the world’s most beautiful places, is a great destination for a wide variety of adrenaline-pumping activities, one of which is trekking. Ladakh, which is sometimes called the ‘Land of High Passes’, is a stunning region in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir that one should not miss out on exploring.

Winter is a time to gather with loved ones, and that’s something to look forward to. And the best places to have some quality time are the popular tourist destinations in North India. We hope that our list of the 10 best places to visit in North India in November will help you relax and unwind.

11 places in India to enjoy your bowl of Maggi!

1st September 2015Posted in Coastal Maharashtra, Jammu & Kashmir, Karnataka, Kerala, Ladakh, Local food, Maharashtra, SaffronStays Diaries, SikkimTagged coorg, Kerala, Ladakh, lakeside, Lonavala, Maggi Ban, Manali, Matheran, Meri Maggi, monsoons, Murud, Pangong Tso, Remote places, Sikkim, Spiti, Tiger point, Uttarakhand, WeMissYouTooMaggiLeave a comment

Reluctant as ever, my Grandpa refrained to eat noodles, until one day, we were both home alone, rest of the family was busy attending a family function, and how he hated outside food! So, to avoid going to bed with an empty stomach, he gave in to the pop culture and asked me to share my bowl of Maggi with him. Surprisingly, one spoon after the other, slurp..slurp..and slurp! He finished his first ever bowl of Maggi! This yellow colored packet had some magic I tell you, even my Grandpa couldn’t resist the 2 minutes miracle! Yes #WeMissYouToo Maggi, hoping for a comeback, or else you will only be heard of in our memories and be seen in our Maggi Selfie’s to our future generation. Below are the places across India where you can have unique encounters with Maggi.

#01 Matheran

Glide over the mesmerizing beauty of Matheran, while you hear the clippety cloc-cloc of horses. This is one among the very few pedestrian hill stations in India! Enjoy the view of forest from the top and munch on your Maggi meals.

Don’t know where to stay at Matheran? Click here!

#02 Murud

Murud, a city in Raigad region is fast becoming a favorite tourist destination because the only sound that disturbs the peace is that of the sea waves crashing on the shores, barely 50 meters away. Because of the land across, the sea here is quiet and tranquil. Wouldn’t it be amazing to spend some time in isolation with your favorite dish i.e., Maggi?

Don’t know where to stay in Murud? Click here!

#03 Lonavala

Let the gentle breeze at Lonavala sooth you, enjoy the warm maggi, a cup of hot chocolate and some corn bhajiya’s at Tiger point. Cuddle up with your friends, gossip about your school days, or take your kids for a drive and share your good old days with them!

Don’t know where to stay while in Lonavala? Click here!

#04 Munnar, Kerala

Kerala is blessed with a lot of beauty, water bodies, beaches, culture & art! So why not indulge into multiple elements and savor your taste buds with a bowl of Maggi which soothes your sense, mind, body & soul! Sip on the soupy noodles and let the waves wash away your stress.

Don’t know where to stay in Kerala? Click here!

#05 Kullu-Manali

After a long drive through the beautiful ghats, relax with your friends or family in the balcony and peep into the nature and come alive while you fight with your friends for the last spoon of Maggi in that bowl!

Don’t know where to stay in Manali? Click here!

#06 Coorg, Karnataka

The old structures and monuments in Karnataka come alive to tell you tales from the past, hear them out on your visit, and on your way back to home, living amid the jungle, let the monsoon showers hinder outside while you enjoy with your delicious bowl of Maggi!

Don’t know where to stay at Gulmarg? Click here!

#07 Srinagar

Remember your Mom waking you up by bribing you a bowl of hot Maggi? Imagine you are on a holiday and you get a home cooked delicious Maggi with added flavors from the hills, nothing like it, right?

Don’t know where to stay at Srinagar? Click here!

#08 Lahaul & Spiti

Out of nowhere amid the magnificent Spiti Valley, when you finally take a sigh & want to fill in your stomach, a two minute Maggi would be a saviour, isn’t it? Settle yourselves under a tent, glance at the mountains right in front of you & let the breeze bring you a homely feeling!

Don’t know where to stay at Lahaul & Spiti? Click here!

#09 Pangong Tso Lake

The deep blue lake reflects the sky and the mountains around. With a falling temperature, this is the perfect location to be your share buddy for a bowl of Maggi! The clouds are just handful away, thin air, silence, you and your Maggi!

Don’t know where to stay in Pangong Lake? Click here!

#10 Sikkim

Do you like trekking in the Himalayan range? Often come back to the base camp with memories from the hills? Ever cooked your own food at the base camp? A two minute break would be such a relief from the long hour cooking procedure! Enjoy the hot Maggi dish with your trek mates and bring back home #MeriMaggi stories.

Don’t know where to stay in Sikkim? Click here!

#11 Marchula, Uttarakhand

Uttarakhand, an originating point of significant Indian rivers, also known as a land of spirituality, offers breath taking views of mountains to the visitors. This region has multiple options and Marchula, is one among the many! It is a small yet beautiful and famous tourist place. Spend some time observing the running water from the banks of Ramganga and sip on your Maggi soup!

Don’t know where to stay while in Marchula? Click here!

P.S. Cover Photo Credits: http://www.hourdose.com

About the Author:

Keenjal Patel

A reader at mind, a writer at heart, a believer at soul and an achiever overall, is what she want to be. She loves to express through words. She’s a firm believer that imagination rules the world and the day this world absorbs the essence of her words, that would be a day of pride for her!

8 Offbeat Places in Ladakh to beat the 3 Idiots crowd

11th February 2015Posted in Ladakh, SaffronStays DiariesTagged Best Places to stay in Ladakh, Homestays in Ladakh, Homestays in Lamayuru, Homestays in Leh, Homestays in Nubra Valley, Homestays in Turtuk, Khalsi, Ladakh, Ladakh tourism, Leh, Nurla, Offbeat stays in Ladakh, Offbeat tours of Ladakh, Tents in Pangong Lake, UleytokpoLeave a comment

By Sarita Santoshini

Offbeat travel in India has long been synonymous with Ladakh. Travellers from all over the world visit this remote region every year to soak up the sight of its high mountain passes, blue lakes, vast deserts and beautiful monasteries, and for the company of its humble locals. As tourists continue to drive towards the most advertised parts of Ladakh, we at SaffronStays took up the task of discovering some of its truly offbeat corners for you. We give you 8 locations, stay options and experiences to beat the crowd during your next trip to Ladakh.

Drive across Ladakh & explore its offbeat corners through SaffronStays this year

1. Stay in Old Town or next to Shanti Stupa in Leh

Homestays in Leh — The breathtaking view from Shanti Stupa.

Homestay in Leh — Beautiful homestay in Leh

During your trip, Leh is where you acclimatise and slowly acquaint yourself with the Ladakhi way of life. We suggest you do so while staying close to Shanti Stupa which stands beautifully at an altitude of almost 14, 000 feet and overlooks the town of Leh, Changspa village and the stark mountains at a distance. Old Town, which dates back to 17^th century, lies on the way to Leh Palace and holds testimony to the forgotten architectural heritage of the region. Staying there will give you a different perspective of Leh while you relax or choose to explore its by lanes.

Getting There: The easiest way to get to Leh is by taking a flight from Delhi to Leh. Alternately, you could fly to Srinagar and take the two-day road trip to Leh via Kargil and Lamayuru.

Where to stay: Near Shanti Stupa, we recommend this Home that has been designed like a Palace and offers a great view of Stok Kangri. (Click here for more details or to book.) You could also stay at this Homestay, which lies a short distance from the market, for its warm hospitality.( Click here for more details or to book.) In Old Leh, we recommend this Guest House which offers spacious rooms. Click here for more details or to book.

Click here to choose from other homestays and guest houses in Leh.

2. Visit the historical town of Basgo

Homestay in Ladakh — What remains of the enchanting Basgo Fort. Photo source: starcloudholidays.com

The simple yet charming rooms of the guest house in Basgo

The historical town of Basgo finds frequent mentions in the Ladakhi chronicles for once being the capital of Lower Ladakh. If you’re a history buff, you should pay a visit to the mud-brick fortress of Basgo Gompa that lies atop a hill and houses the remnants of a citadel and three Maitreya Temples which are supposed to be the oldest surviving structures of its kind dedicated to the Buddha of the future. It definitely makes for a surreal experience. The locals are extremely friendly and will be happy to share a few cups of butter tea and some local legends with you.

Getting there: Basgo lies 33 km away from Leh en route Lamayuru and you can request your taxi driver to make a pit stop in the village.

Where to Stay: In case you choose to stay in Basgo, we recommend this home stay which also happens to be the only one in the village. Click here for more details or to book.

3. Get adventurous in Uleytokpo

Offbeat stay in Ladakh — The rooms of the property let in gorgeous views of the mountains and the surrounding greenery

The charming village of Uleytokpo is another destination that lies en route Lamayuru and is one place that every nature or adventure enthusiast should visit. Trek through a wooded valley to Rizdong Monastery, cycle to Alchi Monastery, and drive or walk up to Mangyu Temple that houses some of the oldest frescoes in Ladakh. You can also try your luck at spotting one or more Ibex and Snow Partridge or go river rafting in the Indus Valley. There are some beautiful family run properties in the area that make a stop at Uleytokpo all the more worthwhile.

Getting there: Uleytokpo lies about 70 km from Leh and 45 km from Lamayuru. Hiring a taxi is the best way to reach there.

Where to Stay: We recommend this property which offers beautiful cottages and tents, has an in-house spa and also makes arrangements for adventure activities on request. Click here for more details or to book.

4. Stay by the Indus River in Khalsi

Offbeat Ladakh — Cottages by the Indus River in Nurla

Khalsi or Khalastse, is a small village that lies 337 km from Srinagar on the old main road to Leh where it crosses the Indus River over an iron bridge. It lies mid-way between Kargil and Leh, and it is here that the road from Kashmir opens up to the Indus Valley. In Khalsi, visit the Khalsi Monastery and the Palace of the old King. Use it as a base for a day trip to Dah Hanu villages, located about 75 km away, which are inhabited by the Brokpa community of Ladakh, considered to be the purest descendants of the ancient Indo-Europeans, to learn about their unique culture. You can also go for a number of short treks and for white water rafting in the Indus Valley.

Getting there: Khalsi lies 12 km from Lamayuru, on the way to Leh and/or Kargil.

Where to Stay: In Khalsi, we recommend this Bed & Breakfast which happens to be the only one providing accommodation in the area. The rooms are simple but the hosts make all the necessary arrangements, including adventure activities and cultural day trips, to ensure a great stay. (Click here for more details or to book.) Alternatively, you can stay in these Cottages that lie on the banks of Indus River in the village of Nurla. Click here for more details or to book.

5. Rest your weary soul in Lamayuru

Though very few Indian travellers stop by at Lamayuru, it is frequented by backpackers from across the globe on their way to Leh, and with good reason. The tiny settlement is home to hospitable locals who’ve opened their homes, which lie at a walking distance from Lamayuru Monastery, to those looking for a spiritual break. Founded in the 11th century, the monastery is home to about 200 monks and is one of the largest and oldest ones in Ladakh. Though much of the ancient monastery has crumbled, it still attracts many Buddhist followers today and we think it definitely deserves a place in your Ladakh itinerary.

Getting there: Lamayuru lies about 110 km from Leh and one can hire taxis to get there.

Where to Stay: We recommend this Homestay in Lamayuru for simple rooms with a great view and delicious local meals. Click here for more details or to book.

Click here for more homestay options in Lamayuru.

6. Do more than Camel riding in Nubra Valley

Homestay in Nubra Valley — Beautiful cottages in the scenic village of Sumur

This Homestay offers cosy and comfortable rooms in Sumur

A trip to Ladakh is incomplete without visiting the sand dunes of Hunder and taking a ride across its vast expanse on a Bactrian (double humped) Camel. We suggest you make your trip even more worthwhile by driving about 40 km further and staying in the scenic village of Sumur. It makes for a great base to explore some unspoilt corners of Nubra Valley on foot. Trek to the 19th-century Samstemling Gompa, opt for half-day hike to the old fort in Sumur or go hiking to a Sea buckthorn forest that lies across the Siachen River. If you’re not up for all the hiking, drive to the Panamik hot springs or to the wishing pond called Trisha Tso, both of which lie 20 minutes away.

Getting there: Sumur is about 120 km from Leh and about 40 km from Hunder. Diskit is a short 10 km drive away from the sand dunes of Hunder.

Where to Stay: We recommend Namgyal’s property in Sumur which has beautiful cottages and plenty of space to lounge in. (Click here for more details or to book.) You could also consider Wangdan’s Homestay for its beautiful rooms and hospitality. Click here for more details or to book.

Alternatively, you can also stay in this Guest House in Diskit that lies at a walking distance from the Diskit Monastery and a short drive away from Hunder. Click here for more details or to book.

Click here to choose from other homestay options in Nubra Valley.

7. Drive along Shyok River to the village of Turtuk – only a few kilometers away from Pakistan

A number of family run properties host travellers in Turtuk

Not many take the 80 km route from Hunder that goes along the Shyok River, leading to a village that greets you with the sight of brooks, wheat farms, apricot orchards, and smiling locals. The village of Turtuk, located only 12 km away from the Line of Control, became a part of India in 1971 and accessible to tourists only in 2010. Unlike the rest of Ladakh, the locals of Turtuk are Baltis who follow Islam. Stay with the locals and learn about the region’s unique history and culture from them, explore the village -its farms and bylanes – on foot, trek to a waterfall or visit the old royal house.

Getting There: Turtuk is best accessed from Hunder in Nubra Valley that lies 80 km away.

Where to Stay: We recommend this Homestay in Turtuk which serves some delicious local meals and offers rooms with a great view. Click here to know more or to book.

Click here to choose from other homestay options in Turtuk.

8. Sleep under the stars on the banks of Pangong Lake

Tents in Pangong Lake — The blue expanse of Pangong Lake in Ladakh

The last scene of Amir Khan’s movie 3 Idiots added the beautiful high altitude lake of Pangong to everyone’s Ladakh itinerary. Tour guides and taxi drivers will readily take you for a day trip but unless you’ve spent a night under the star studded sky there, you haven’t truly soaked up its beauty. Choose from one of the camp sites or tents that are pitched near Pangong Tso. Spend the day watching the colors of the lake change while lounging on a sun deck or from the comforts of your tent, and enjoy the starry night with a bonfire. It’s as magical as it gets.

Getting there: Pangong Tso is best accessed from Leh which lies 225 km away.

Where to Stay: You can take your pick from Guest Houses, Tents and Homestays in Pangong Tso. Click here for more details or to book.

Click here to choose from other Homestays, Villas and Guest Houses in Ladakh.

Note: All photographs, unless otherwise mentioned, were taken by Kartik Mahajan during his trip for SaffronStays to Ladakh.

————-

Which of these offbeat locations in Ladakh have you been to & which ones do you plan to visit next? Share with us in your comments.

About the author: Born and raised in Assam, Sarita Santoshini has been travelling around India and penning down her experiences over the past year. You can read more of her travelogues on her blog- http://crumbsfromyourtale.wordpress.com.

How a Homestay Host enriched my Ladakh experience

23rd January 2015Posted in Community tourism, Ladakh, Local culture, Responsible tourismTagged Homestays in Ladakh, Ladakh, Ladakh farming, Ladakh homestays, Ladakh road trips, Ladakh Sacred Grove, Ladakh trek, Ladakhi culture, Leh, Offbeat LadakhLeave a comment

By Elita Almeida

The air was crisp and clean. Even at an altitude of 14000 feet above sea level with reduced oxygen levels, I could bet my lungs were happier than they would ever be in my urban smog-ridden existence back home. I was happy here. This felt like home too. May be it was, from another time in another life.

His eyes shone like the full moon in a salt desert. And as he held our gaze he said, “There’s a reason why we’ve met. You and I. There’s a reason why I had the honour of welcoming you into my home. You could have stayed the night with any other family in this village; but it happened to be mine…”

His words met a lump in my throat. They were certainly having an effect. I averted my gaze and met another’s; we’d both felt it. Somewhere prayer-flags were fluttering in the air.

So who was this man?

“I prefer walking. That way we take in the landscape in a more intimate and connected way. In a manner which we couldn’t while whizzing past it in a car”, said Vinod our group facilitator. That’s how a trek starting from Likir via Yangthang to Hemishukpachen was integrated into our experience of Ladakh. And that’s how I met Mr. Namgyal and his wife as one of our homestay hosts in Hemishukpachen, a village about 70 km from Leh.

This was my second time in Ladakh but a first with a group of travellers – and rather coincidentally, solo travellers. We were a group of 11 who were received very warmly by Namgyalji and his wife – literally and figuratively as this included a hot bowl of soup just moments after we’d entered their humble abode. We’d trekked for about 20 kilometers that day alone and were famished – but not so famished that a soupy meal of Maggi couldn’t fix! Their home was a quaint weathered 2-storeyed structure that told a story of simplicity unmarred by the lures of present day’s advancement and of harsh winters endured from the yesterday’s gone by.

Community Living

The next morning Namgyalji took us around the village and explained the concept of community farming. “We cultivate over the same land in rotation by alternating between plots that nearer to a source of water supply and those that are not. So during some periods my family has to toil more to bring water to the plot that we are cultivating, and during the next cycle of cultivation, another family will do the same”, he said. “Families here have been doing this for generations. I remember my father and my grandfather following these practices.”

A remote village in distant Ladakh had so much to teach us about living in harmony!

He further deepened our understanding of the Ladakhi culture, “A person is considered rich if they have enough produce from their farm to last them nine years, and middle-class if they have enough to last them six years… the poor have enough to help them survive three years!” He clarified that this meant that the family had enough without having to move a muscle for a given number of years!

I was left with the question: Could you and I with our educational qualifications and ‘jobs’ ever dare to claim to have enough – let alone for how long the duration?

The Sacred Groves

Later Namgyalji took us to the sacred grove of junipers that were on the outskirts of the village. Amongst it there was a 2500 year old juniper tree that is revered as the mother goddess. Sacred groves are synonymous with nature worship and traditions. We were asked not to pluck or take anything outside the sacred grove with us, not even leaves that had fallen to the ground. This grove is protected and maintained by the local community and forest department. I later read up on scared groves and learnt that there weren’t too many juniper trees in Ladakh – so a grove of junipers at Hemishukpachen was indeed magical. At the sacred grove, stillness spoke many a volume.

As I reflected back at my time thus far in Ladakh I realised that it was this same stillness that was my staff as we’d trekked, but not before I’d stumbled over my own feet. The trick I gradually learnt was in synchronising the rhythm of my breath with the rhythm of my step. There was something comforting, calm and quiet about Ladakh – the barren hills, simple pastures, the flowing rivulets, the breeze…like some strange magic – the kind that reassures and doesn’t alarm or disturb

The ‘Little Tibet of India’, I realised, definitely had a lot to teach me on the Ladakhi ways of reasoning than I’d seemed to have come prepared for!

—————–

Want to make the most of your Ladakh trip? Visit our website to book your stay in one or more of the 141 verified Homestays in Ladakh.

About the author: Elita is Nondescript. Nonchalant. Observer. Witty. Sarcastic. Skinny. Nomadic Thunker. Square Peg. Sporadic Blogger. Solo Traveller. Blogs at nomadicthunker.blogspot.in; skinnygenus.blogspot.com. Tweets @NomadicThunker.

Kargil – Of Breads and Apricots

1st December 2014Posted in Jammu & Kashmir, Ladakh, Local culture, Local foodTagged Apricot, Chachura, Girdeh, Jammu, Jammu & Kashmir, Kargil, Kashmir, kashmir homestays, Khambir, Kulcha, Ladakh, Ladakh homestays, Lavasa, Local bread, Local foodLeave a comment

By Harsh Mehta

There is some serenity about a morning in the Himalayas. The might of the massifs seems humbled by a morning Sun, the cold a little less biting, more like an embrace to a new day and the freshness of the dew under one’s feet, a subtle reminder of age-old childhood memories. If the stay is longer, mornings in the mountains become a ritual. One grows to like the freshness of the air, the calm walks around and the breakfasts to soothe the pangs of hunger that beckon with the cold. I remember starting my volunteering stint in Ladakh with an utter dislike for the apricot jam & the local ‘khambir’ bread and ending it with an insatiable longing for both of them every morning.

And so, during a recent visit to Kargil, in spite of staying in a hotel, I couldn’t get myself to have the ‘English’ bread-butter-coffee breakfast that it so generously offered. A morning walk around the town was in order and off we headed, over the roads that surrounded a gurgling Suru river. Few shops seemed open at this early hour in the morning. Carcasses of lambs hung down from meat shops in the goriest of their forms. Not the best of sights to begin one’s day with. So I turned away, looking for a less overwhelming experience. A little girl waited in front of the window of a shop, her gaze fixed upon the simmering ‘tandoor’ on the other side of the window. The owner then took three breads from the tandoor, wrapped them in a newspaper, and handed over to the girl who scurried away in the same direction as us. As we walked further in the market, more and more such bakeries became visible. Full-fledged baking stores, smaller shops, sometimes merely an ignored corner between two adjacent stores, just wide enough to accommodate a round tandoor and the equally round belly of the man behind it, these bakeries rule the morning hours of Kargil. Men, women, kids, line outside these bakeries, grab a bread or two and head home, like any other morning chore. I was left wondering how different these were from the khambir I ate in Leh during my last stay.

Nevertheless, in our hunt for a simple chai, we kept walking further, past more butcher shops and vegetable stores. The Suru was now way closer than earlier, its waters muddied by the rains, flowing ferociously beside the road. The market however, was far smaller than the expanse of the Suru. It ended earlier than anticipated. At the end, we noticed a ‘Darjeeling Hotel’ selling tea and a bakery right beside it. A desi’s delight would know no bounds at this sight. Chai and local bread. Just the way mornings in the mountains are supposed to be. While my friend occupied himself with the task of getting two cups of chai extra-sweetened, I cozied up to the bakery.

Two men worked in the bakery. One sat right behind the tandoor, his head constantly bowed in search of the latest bread to turn golden brown inside the oven. The other stood beside a table on the far side of the room, extracting the dough, leavening it, turning it into balls of even sizes and then pressing them into flat breads ready to be shoved and slapped inside the tandoor. The bakery was a version of the tandoor in itself, its walls blackened by the soot, its air warmed by the heat. One wall in particular sought attention. It was actually a notice on the wall which deserved a good read. As I went through the prices for the several items mentioned on the notice, I realised that it listed much more than a menu – it listed an entire tradition in baking in this part of the world. Girdeh, Lavasa, Chachura, Kulcha, most of these, names of breads I’d barely heard. When probed about them, our bakery men told that these were local breads and only girdeh and chachura were available in the morning and lavasa in the afternoon. We took our two pieces of girdeh and gulped them down with two cups of tea from ‘Darjeeling hotel’ (actually run by a Nepali). The men also pointed in another direction to the bakery on the other side of the road, which sold ‘chachura’, more importantly, this being one of the only two in Kargil that sold it. The chachura is a crisp, hard bread, actually more like a cross between a bread and a cookie. We took just two of these, they were bland, in desperate need of some accompaniment, and then watched a ministerial cavalcade pass by.

It was only after we began our journey back when we realised that the market had sort of changed from how we had left it. Several men and women now lined both sides of the road. Beautiful faces, accompanied by equally beautiful fruits, basketfuls of which they’d brought along to be sold here. Fresh apricots from farms and households,lay stored in aluminium and plastic containers to be evaluated by passers-by, held in their hands, smelled through their noses and the apricots’ reddish-orange velvety skin to be carefully inspected through their gaze. Nearby lay crates full of apples, but surprisingly smaller, the size of the apricots and green in colour, yet tasty enough to fill one’s morning with sweetness. On both the fruits, the sellers maintained that they were the best in India – those from Kashmir would fade in comparison to the ones in Kargil. Now that was a big claim to make but I could not agree more with the apricot seller. On apples, given that I have a soft corner for the Kashmiri ones somewhere in my mouth, I decided not to argue.

We turned back to the hotel as a life size poster of the Ayatollah watched upon us. The market was even livelier now, this being a Sunday. Several carts with vegetables, fruits and even clothes dotted the street now. Reaching the hotel, I glanced at its restaurant. Portions of generous butter cubes and jam extracts peeped at me through its windows. I smiled and headed back to the room. Had I stayed back for these, I’d never have known what a Chachura or a Girdeh was!

Visit our website to book from 21 homestays in Srinagar & 141 homestays in Ladakh

About the author: Harsh Mehta is your typical 20-something traveller who roams around from Krakow to Kerala and Hungary to the Himalayas in his quest to unravel the gems of the world. Having successively lost his heart to the mountains of Kashmir, the sweet traditions of the Ottoman cuisine and the old town squares of Europe, he now fancies anything that travels, from food and culture to music & languages and their linkages across the world. And so, even as he spends dreamy days at his 9-5 job, he derives inspiration from the messy streets of Mumbai to pen down the best of his travels and believes that the best destinations are not the ones that you go to with a wishlist but those that you return from with one. He shares his experiences on his personal blog – Travelbyts, tweets at @harshm09 and can be shown some love at Facebook- TravelByts. He’s also reachable at travelbyts@gmail.com.

Photo essay: A soulful journey through Ladakh

20th November 2014Posted in Ladakh, Ninja DiariesTagged Chang la, Khardung la, Ladakh, Ladakh homestays, Leh, Leh homestays, Nubra Valley, Pangong Lake, Shanti Stupa, Thiksey MonasteryLeave a comment

“Leh – 1 km away” – As soon as I saw the milestone, my face immediately broke into a wide smile. I was in Ladakh again, and this time for 20 days as part of an assignment for SaffronStays.

We’d taken the 434 km long Leh-Srinagar Highway to get there and the journey, though long and tiring, kept us staring out of our window in delight. I had seen it all before – the barren land dotted with colorful striking monasteries, steep curvy roads, high mountain passes, snow capped peaks, sand dunes, and unbelievably colorful lakes – but Ladakh had me spellbound and soulful again. Here is our journey in pictures –

The striking landscape of Ladakh that greeted us as we drove from Srinagar to Leh.

*************

Leh is one place that really lets you soak up Buddhism. Every street corner gives way to a set of Buddhist Prayer wheels, which you can gently push, watch it spin and send across your quick message to God, and walk past.

****************

During my trip, I was very excited about interacting with Ladakhi families. Living with them, observing their culture, and learning so much from them was a heartfelt experience. Their beautiful match-box like Ladakhi houses, with organic gardens, cosy rooms, hundreds of copper utensils, and the warm families living there, left a great impression on me.

P.S. Whenever you come across any Ladakhi, say ‘Juley’ and experience its magic.

*****************

I had always wanted to visit the Shanti Stupa at sunrise. We shook ourselves awake before dawn and made it there by 5:30 am. We were the only visitors, and watching the sky slowly turn blue and bright at the Stupa’s backdrop was quite a sight.

*****************

Another place where I wanted to watch the sun’s magic is Thiksey Monastery. Being the largest monastery in central Ladakh, it is spread over 12 stories on a hill top, and houses shops, hotel, restaurant, school, museum, temples and even a nunnery. A 49 feet high statue of Maitreya Buddha is also erected here. Spellbinding isn’t it?

***************

Our journey onwards to Nubra Valley took us through Khardung La – the highest motorable road in the world.

When we reached the highest point of the Pass, I felt like I had reached the top of the world – it was a surreal feeling. There was a small cafeteria run by the Indian Military serving tea and coffee to travellers. Hats off to these soldiers!

*****************

In Nubra Valley, we were welcomed by a beautiful statue of Maitreya Buddha. The view of the valley from the statue is breathtaking. The smallest village in the valley, Hunder gives you a chance to experience camel safari at a height of 10,000 feet! This is the only place where you see a river flowing right next to you, sand dunes, barren land and snow-capped mountains – all at the same time.

*******************

The last region of Ladakh that we explored was the magical Pangong Tso – situated at a height of 14,500 feet.

We crossed Chang la, believed to be the world’s third highest motorable road, to get there. We spent a night by the lake. I perched myself with hot bowls of soup and watched the sun rise and set and the colors of the lake change magically in sync.

Not like I had forgotten, but after this long and fulfilling trip, I am only assured of how much I love Ladakh and how no place can ever be as beautiful and surreal as this.

All photographs were taken by Kartik Mahajan

*********************

We have 141 Homestays in some stunning locations of Ladakh. Click here to book one today.

About the authors: Greeshma Soley is an avid traveller, biker and adventure enthusiast and Kartik Mahajan is a professional Photographer and Videographer. They travelled together to Ladakh, Srinagar and Himachal Pradesh as part of the Travel Ninja programme of SaffronStays in July-August 2014.