The Mussorie Bond

Ruskin Bond

By Sreejita Basu

I always awaited Thursdays, for that day of the week brought a special supplement called Telekids along with the daily newspaper. I loved solving the puzzles and enjoyed reading the jokes contributed by kids across the city (of Calcutta, now Kolkata). But what I most looked forward to was the story section by a gentleman called Ruskin Bond who wrote about a boy called Rusty. As I look back, I can confidently say that my childhood would have been a little less complete without Rusty and his world, just like my trip to Mussoorie last month would have been without meeting the man who created that very world.

The idea of a road trip to Mussoorie germinated when I chanced upon some old pictures in the family album. The year was 1994 and a puny child (ah yes! that’s me!) posing at Kempty Falls stood staring at me. Something told me that it was time to revisit. Taking advantage of the fact that I stayed in Delhi, my husband and I packed our bags and were off the next morning.

Mussorie
View of the hill station from Gunhill Point. Photo Source: indiatravelblog.net

Before we knew it, the upright rhododendrons and the November nip greeted us at Mussoorie. We found ourselves a quaint place to stay in atop a steep slope – replete with bright sunshine and some monkey mania (the room prominently bore the sign of ‘beware of monkeys in the balcony’). It was a Saturday and being Ruskin Bond fanatics we knew that the author visits the Cambridge Book Depot in Mussoorie every Saturday without fail unless he is traveling. We decided to take our chance. A quick call to the bookstore confirmed that Mr. Bond was indeed at the store! Ditching lunch, the husband and I grabbed our car keys and were off lest we missed the chance of meeting our most beloved storyteller in person. However, a combination of fatigue, careless driving and bad luck had our car finding its way into a small ditch. I am not superstitious by nature but this time I kept my fingers crossed. What if Ruskin Bond had already left the store? Banishing such thoughts aside, I prayed to the powers above to send some help which arrived in the form of a group of local school kids lending their arms and successfully salvaging the i10 and our chances of meeting the man.

Mussorie Homestays
When friends came visiting. Photo by Deepanjan Sengupta

We reached Mall Road, where the book store is located, and walked some distance before reaching our destination. The uphill road did its best to mock our fitness levels but we managed to reach at a record time, huffing and puffing, only to be greeted by the octogenarian author asking us to catch our breath before anything else. A man with a wonderful sense of humour, Ruskin Bond is nothing like you would expect a celebrity to be. We had the chance to speak to him about our love for his books and the hills and would have continued for a few more hours when we realised that a huge group of school kids had already surrounded him. There were people who knew that he would be there; there were some like us who hoped he would be there, there were passers-by who just walked in to realise that he was there and there were those who did not have much of a clue as to what the crowd was all about. But what was heart-warming was the way Ruskin Bond interacted with all these different groups, happily signing copies of his books and posing for the shutterbugs in spite of being camera shy. We left the store, happy and content, with our autographed books and the hope of meeting this charming man once again.

Ruskin Bond
All smiles with my favourite author. Photo by Deepanjan Sengupta

What followed was a scrumptious Tibetan meal at Kalsang, a stone’s throw away from the bookstore. We then took a ride on the ropeway which took us to Gunhill Point. This place offers a panoramic view of the city of Mussoorie and a brilliant spot for photography enthusiasts.  We indulged in some fun games, some souvenir shopping and some Deja-vu moments as I clearly recalled the memories of my trip twenty years ago at the very same spots. We walked hand in hand down Mall Road; we warmed ourselves with milky masala chai and followed it with freezing Softy cones. We haggled with hawkers and gifted ourselves cute gloves and caps. We stood silently and took in the magical Mussoorie air as much as we could before trudging back to our hotel, occasionally stopping to stare above at the countless stars in the sky, a rarity now in my part of the world.

The next day was spent in visiting Company Garden and being mistaken for a honeymoon couple given our inclination to get ourselves clicked in traditional Mussoorie costumes, totally complying with all the weird poses suggested by the photographer. This was followed by a trek to Lal Tibba which happens to be the highest point in Mussoorie (alas, we could not squeeze in ‘Pari Tibba’ into our itinerary, one of the most talked about places in Ruskin Bond stories, apparently inhabited by fairies) and a drive down the winding roads of the adjoining town of Landour (home to not just Ruskin Bond but also the likes of actors Victor Banerjee and Tom Alter).

Mussorie
A view of the pristine mountains from Lal Tibba. Photo by Deepanjan Sengupta
Mussorie Homestays
Flowers in full bloom at Company Garden. Photo by Deepanjan Sengupta

The weekend went by in a jiffy and it was time to turn back towards Delhi. We bade goodbye to the ‘Queen of Hills’ with a promise to come back, very, very soon again.

 

Take a trip to Mussorie and its neighbouring hill stations in 2015. Visit our website to book from 17 Homestays in Uttarakhand.

About the Traveller: Born in the steel city of Jamshedpur, Sreejita grew up in Calcutta and Bombay and now resides in New Delhi. She loves unfamiliar roads and uncommon tastes. When she is not working as a communications professional for a living, she likes to read, eat, travel and pen down her random thoughts in her blog.

Moods, Memories and Memorabilia of a Darjeeling trip

Darjeeling

By Sreejita Basu

Few things spell ‘happiness’ better than the idea of a trip to the hills when the thermometer is close to touching 42 degree Celsius in the plains. So, when the idea of a Darjeeling trip was floated on a sultry afternoon, it was unanimously vetoed by all participants leaving no scope for discussion.

The four day trip executed in May was divided into two parts. The first day was to be spent in Bara Mangwa (Bara Mangwa literally means ‘Big Village’. There is a Chota Mangwa or ‘Small Village’ in the vicinity as well), a village towards the western side of Kalimpong Hills, followed by three days in the district of Darjeeling. The plan to head to Bara Mangwa was aided by a colleague of mine who had founded a charitable trust in this region back in 2005 with the objective of helping the local community of the village. Since then, the trust has begun organic farming, animal husbandry and flower cultivation in this region.

We were to stay at the Bara Mangwa Farm House also run by my colleague within the premises of the trust. One could say that we were not in the highest of spirits after the night-long train journey that was followed by a two hour bus ride and  a bumpy jeep drive. But a refreshing drink of orange squash straight from the nearby orchard, and we were sprinting to explore the virginal beauty of Bara Mangwa. Accompanying us was Tyson- a distant relative of the Kumaon Mastiff and Rahi, a six month old German Shepherd. A quick spell of unexpected rain, endless servings of piping hot momos with the tantalizing Tibetan chilli dip, the strumming of the guitar and the spine-chilling (and sometimes comical) versions of ghost stories under the moonlit sky made our stay at Bara Mangwa more than just a perfect affair.

Bara Mangwa
The stunning Bara Mangwa Farm House surrounded by nature. Photo courtesy – Bara Mangwa Farm House authorities.

We started for Darjeeling early next morning where our plan was to first dig into the famed breakfast at Glenary’s before doing anything else. The first stop was the Teesta-Rangeet confluence- the meeting of the two largest rivers of Sikkim. Local guides of this region love to regale tourists with the anecdote of the ‘Lover’s Point’ with Teesta as the woman and Rangeet as her lover. Having lapped up the stories and the breath-taking beauty of the region along with some Wai-Wai noodles,we were on our way to Darjeeling again. This is when the surprise package of the tour presented itself before us. The pleasant morning breeze had turned into a nippy wind and soon a hailstorm struck the mountains with such gusto that all roads leading upto Darjeeling were jammed for a good forty-five minutes. But this was no ordinary hailstorm…this, believe it or not (even we did not until the newspapers announced it the next morning) was snowfall in the month of April! Although our feet were on the verge of developing frostbites and our luggage was soaked to the core, this was serendipity indeed.

Darjeeling snow
Hail…or was it snow? Photo by Subhadip Dutta

The hail and the rain gave way to bright sunshine the next morning and we began the day with a languorous ride on the heritage toy train from Darjeeling to Ghum where we visited the Ghum Monastery and Batasia Loop, the obvious tourist destinations. What was not quite obvious was when the driver excitedly pointed out to St. Paul’s School on our way back, a location where the blockbuster ‘Main HoonNaa’ was shot more than a decade ago!

A visit to Darjeeling wouldn’t be complete without visiting its famed tea-gardens. We headed to the famous Makaibari tea estate. Apart from stocking up on tea-packets for friends and family, do not forget to don the traditional tea-pickers’ costume (available for a small rent) and get yourselves clicked if you happen to be visiting the tea estate. You will have a good laugh going over these in times to come.

Makaibari Tea Estate
The green vistas of Makaibari Tea Estate. Photo by Subhadip Dutta

Before we knew it, it was time to leave..The endless trips to Mall Road, the haggling over silk scarves and woollen caps, the meals at Keventer’s (alas, they do not serve the scrumptious pork ribs anymore), the cosy feeling of sporting woollens long stacked in naphthalene scattered suitcases, the headiness of sipping freshly brewed Darjeeling tea-we left with these images  well stacked in our cameras and our heads. We weren’t lucky enough to catch a sight of the Kanchenjunga in its morning glory or the time to visit the Sumendu Lake at Mirik. But no one was complaining. For, as Lao Tzu very succinctly put it, “A good traveller has no fixed plans and is not intent on arriving”.

Darjeeling
And the journey continues. Photo by Subhadip Dutta

 

Visit our website to book homestays in Darjeeling.

About the Traveller: Born in the steel city of Jamshedpur, Sreejita grew up in Calcutta and Bombay and now resides in New Delhi. She loves unfamiliar roads and uncommon tastes. When she is not working as a communications professional for a living, she likes to read, eat, travel and pen down her random thoughts in her blog.