Homestays in Ladakh – What's Next?

By Sarita Santoshini

Offbeat travel in India has long been synonymous with Ladakh. Travellers from all over the world visit this remote region every year to soak up the sight of its high mountain passes, blue lakes, vast deserts and beautiful monasteries, and for the company of its humble locals. As tourists continue to drive towards the most advertised parts of Ladakh, we at SaffronStays took up the task of discovering some of its truly offbeat corners for you. We give you 8 locations, stay options and experiences to beat the crowd during your next trip to Ladakh.

Drive across Ladakh & explore its offbeat corners through SaffronStays this year

1. Stay in Old Town or next to Shanti Stupa in Leh

Homestays in Leh — The breathtaking view from Shanti Stupa.

Homestay in Leh — Beautiful homestay in Leh

During your trip, Leh is where you acclimatise and slowly acquaint yourself with the Ladakhi way of life. We suggest you do so while staying close to Shanti Stupa which stands beautifully at an altitude of almost 14, 000 feet and overlooks the town of Leh, Changspa village and the stark mountains at a distance. Old Town, which dates back to 17^th century, lies on the way to Leh Palace and holds testimony to the forgotten architectural heritage of the region. Staying there will give you a different perspective of Leh while you relax or choose to explore its by lanes.

Getting There: The easiest way to get to Leh is by taking a flight from Delhi to Leh. Alternately, you could fly to Srinagar and take the two-day road trip to Leh via Kargil and Lamayuru.

Where to stay: Near Shanti Stupa, we recommend this Home that has been designed like a Palace and offers a great view of Stok Kangri. (Click here for more details or to book.) You could also stay at this Homestay, which lies a short distance from the market, for its warm hospitality.( Click here for more details or to book.) In Old Leh, we recommend this Guest House which offers spacious rooms. Click here for more details or to book.

Click here to choose from other homestays and guest houses in Leh.

2. Visit the historical town of Basgo

Homestay in Ladakh — What remains of the enchanting Basgo Fort. Photo source: starcloudholidays.com

The simple yet charming rooms of the guest house in Basgo

The historical town of Basgo finds frequent mentions in the Ladakhi chronicles for once being the capital of Lower Ladakh. If you’re a history buff, you should pay a visit to the mud-brick fortress of Basgo Gompa that lies atop a hill and houses the remnants of a citadel and three Maitreya Temples which are supposed to be the oldest surviving structures of its kind dedicated to the Buddha of the future. It definitely makes for a surreal experience. The locals are extremely friendly and will be happy to share a few cups of butter tea and some local legends with you.

Getting there: Basgo lies 33 km away from Leh en route Lamayuru and you can request your taxi driver to make a pit stop in the village.

Where to Stay: In case you choose to stay in Basgo, we recommend this home stay which also happens to be the only one in the village. Click here for more details or to book.

3. Get adventurous in Uleytokpo

Offbeat stay in Ladakh — The rooms of the property let in gorgeous views of the mountains and the surrounding greenery

The charming village of Uleytokpo is another destination that lies en route Lamayuru and is one place that every nature or adventure enthusiast should visit. Trek through a wooded valley to Rizdong Monastery, cycle to Alchi Monastery, and drive or walk up to Mangyu Temple that houses some of the oldest frescoes in Ladakh. You can also try your luck at spotting one or more Ibex and Snow Partridge or go river rafting in the Indus Valley. There are some beautiful family run properties in the area that make a stop at Uleytokpo all the more worthwhile.

Getting there: Uleytokpo lies about 70 km from Leh and 45 km from Lamayuru. Hiring a taxi is the best way to reach there.

Where to Stay: We recommend this property which offers beautiful cottages and tents, has an in-house spa and also makes arrangements for adventure activities on request. Click here for more details or to book.

4. Stay by the Indus River in Khalsi

Offbeat Ladakh — Cottages by the Indus River in Nurla

Khalsi or Khalastse, is a small village that lies 337 km from Srinagar on the old main road to Leh where it crosses the Indus River over an iron bridge. It lies mid-way between Kargil and Leh, and it is here that the road from Kashmir opens up to the Indus Valley. In Khalsi, visit the Khalsi Monastery and the Palace of the old King. Use it as a base for a day trip to Dah Hanu villages, located about 75 km away, which are inhabited by the Brokpa community of Ladakh, considered to be the purest descendants of the ancient Indo-Europeans, to learn about their unique culture. You can also go for a number of short treks and for white water rafting in the Indus Valley.

Getting there: Khalsi lies 12 km from Lamayuru, on the way to Leh and/or Kargil.

Where to Stay: In Khalsi, we recommend this Bed & Breakfast which happens to be the only one providing accommodation in the area. The rooms are simple but the hosts make all the necessary arrangements, including adventure activities and cultural day trips, to ensure a great stay. (Click here for more details or to book.) Alternatively, you can stay in these Cottages that lie on the banks of Indus River in the village of Nurla. Click here for more details or to book.

5. Rest your weary soul in Lamayuru

Homestays in Ladakh — Monks go about their daily lives in Lamayuru Monastery

Though very few Indian travellers stop by at Lamayuru, it is frequented by backpackers from across the globe on their way to Leh, and with good reason. The tiny settlement is home to hospitable locals who’ve opened their homes, which lie at a walking distance from Lamayuru Monastery, to those looking for a spiritual break. Founded in the 11th century, the monastery is home to about 200 monks and is one of the largest and oldest ones in Ladakh. Though much of the ancient monastery has crumbled, it still attracts many Buddhist followers today and we think it definitely deserves a place in your Ladakh itinerary.

Getting there: Lamayuru lies about 110 km from Leh and one can hire taxis to get there.

Where to Stay: We recommend this Homestay in Lamayuru for simple rooms with a great view and delicious local meals. Click here for more details or to book.

Click here for more homestay options in Lamayuru.

6. Do more than Camel riding in Nubra Valley

Homestay in Nubra Valley — Beautiful cottages in the scenic village of Sumur

This Homestay offers cosy and comfortable rooms in Sumur

A trip to Ladakh is incomplete without visiting the sand dunes of Hunder and taking a ride across its vast expanse on a Bactrian (double humped) Camel. We suggest you make your trip even more worthwhile by driving about 40 km further and staying in the scenic village of Sumur. It makes for a great base to explore some unspoilt corners of Nubra Valley on foot. Trek to the 19th-century Samstemling Gompa, opt for half-day hike to the old fort in Sumur or go hiking to a Sea buckthorn forest that lies across the Siachen River. If you’re not up for all the hiking, drive to the Panamik hot springs or to the wishing pond called Trisha Tso, both of which lie 20 minutes away.

Getting there: Sumur is about 120 km from Leh and about 40 km from Hunder. Diskit is a short 10 km drive away from the sand dunes of Hunder.

Where to Stay: We recommend Namgyal’s property in Sumur which has beautiful cottages and plenty of space to lounge in. (Click here for more details or to book.) You could also consider Wangdan’s Homestay for its beautiful rooms and hospitality. Click here for more details or to book.

Alternatively, you can also stay in this Guest House in Diskit that lies at a walking distance from the Diskit Monastery and a short drive away from Hunder. Click here for more details or to book.

Click here to choose from other homestay options in Nubra Valley.

7. Drive along Shyok River to the village of Turtuk – only a few kilometers away from Pakistan

A number of family run properties host travellers in Turtuk

Not many take the 80 km route from Hunder that goes along the Shyok River, leading to a village that greets you with the sight of brooks, wheat farms, apricot orchards, and smiling locals. The village of Turtuk, located only 12 km away from the Line of Control, became a part of India in 1971 and accessible to tourists only in 2010. Unlike the rest of Ladakh, the locals of Turtuk are Baltis who follow Islam. Stay with the locals and learn about the region’s unique history and culture from them, explore the village -its farms and bylanes – on foot, trek to a waterfall or visit the old royal house.

Getting There: Turtuk is best accessed from Hunder in Nubra Valley that lies 80 km away.

Where to Stay: We recommend this Homestay in Turtuk which serves some delicious local meals and offers rooms with a great view. Click here to know more or to book.

Click here to choose from other homestay options in Turtuk.

8. Sleep under the stars on the banks of Pangong Lake

Tents in Pangong Lake — The blue expanse of Pangong Lake in Ladakh

The last scene of Amir Khan’s movie 3 Idiots added the beautiful high altitude lake of Pangong to everyone’s Ladakh itinerary. Tour guides and taxi drivers will readily take you for a day trip but unless you’ve spent a night under the star studded sky there, you haven’t truly soaked up its beauty. Choose from one of the camp sites or tents that are pitched near Pangong Tso. Spend the day watching the colors of the lake change while lounging on a sun deck or from the comforts of your tent, and enjoy the starry night with a bonfire. It’s as magical as it gets.

Getting there: Pangong Tso is best accessed from Leh which lies 225 km away.

Where to Stay: You can take your pick from Guest Houses, Tents and Homestays in Pangong Tso. Click here for more details or to book.

Click here to choose from other Homestays, Villas and Guest Houses in Ladakh.

Note: All photographs, unless otherwise mentioned, were taken by Kartik Mahajan during his trip for SaffronStays to Ladakh.

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Which of these offbeat locations in Ladakh have you been to & which ones do you plan to visit next? Share with us in your comments.

About the author: Born and raised in Assam, Sarita Santoshini has been travelling around India and penning down her experiences over the past year. You can read more of her travelogues on her blog- http://crumbsfromyourtale.wordpress.com.

By Elita Almeida

The air was crisp and clean. Even at an altitude of 14000 feet above sea level with reduced oxygen levels, I could bet my lungs were happier than they would ever be in my urban smog-ridden existence back home. I was happy here. This felt like home too. May be it was, from another time in another life.

His eyes shone like the full moon in a salt desert. And as he held our gaze he said, “There’s a reason why we’ve met. You and I. There’s a reason why I had the honour of welcoming you into my home. You could have stayed the night with any other family in this village; but it happened to be mine…”

His words met a lump in my throat. They were certainly having an effect. I averted my gaze and met another’s; we’d both felt it. Somewhere prayer-flags were fluttering in the air.

So who was this man?

“I prefer walking. That way we take in the landscape in a more intimate and connected way. In a manner which we couldn’t while whizzing past it in a car”, said Vinod our group facilitator. That’s how a trek starting from Likir via Yangthang to Hemishukpachen was integrated into our experience of Ladakh. And that’s how I met Mr. Namgyal and his wife as one of our homestay hosts in Hemishukpachen, a village about 70 km from Leh.

This was my second time in Ladakh but a first with a group of travellers – and rather coincidentally, solo travellers. We were a group of 11 who were received very warmly by Namgyalji and his wife – literally and figuratively as this included a hot bowl of soup just moments after we’d entered their humble abode. We’d trekked for about 20 kilometers that day alone and were famished – but not so famished that a soupy meal of Maggi couldn’t fix! Their home was a quaint weathered 2-storeyed structure that told a story of simplicity unmarred by the lures of present day’s advancement and of harsh winters endured from the yesterday’s gone by.

Community Living

The next morning Namgyalji took us around the village and explained the concept of community farming. “We cultivate over the same land in rotation by alternating between plots that nearer to a source of water supply and those that are not. So during some periods my family has to toil more to bring water to the plot that we are cultivating, and during the next cycle of cultivation, another family will do the same”, he said. “Families here have been doing this for generations. I remember my father and my grandfather following these practices.”

A remote village in distant Ladakh had so much to teach us about living in harmony!

He further deepened our understanding of the Ladakhi culture, “A person is considered rich if they have enough produce from their farm to last them nine years, and middle-class if they have enough to last them six years… the poor have enough to help them survive three years!” He clarified that this meant that the family had enough without having to move a muscle for a given number of years!

I was left with the question: Could you and I with our educational qualifications and ‘jobs’ ever dare to claim to have enough – let alone for how long the duration?

The Sacred Groves

Later Namgyalji took us to the sacred grove of junipers that were on the outskirts of the village. Amongst it there was a 2500 year old juniper tree that is revered as the mother goddess. Sacred groves are synonymous with nature worship and traditions. We were asked not to pluck or take anything outside the sacred grove with us, not even leaves that had fallen to the ground. This grove is protected and maintained by the local community and forest department. I later read up on scared groves and learnt that there weren’t too many juniper trees in Ladakh – so a grove of junipers at Hemishukpachen was indeed magical. At the sacred grove, stillness spoke many a volume.

As I reflected back at my time thus far in Ladakh I realised that it was this same stillness that was my staff as we’d trekked, but not before I’d stumbled over my own feet. The trick I gradually learnt was in synchronising the rhythm of my breath with the rhythm of my step. There was something comforting, calm and quiet about Ladakh – the barren hills, simple pastures, the flowing rivulets, the breeze…like some strange magic – the kind that reassures and doesn’t alarm or disturb

The ‘Little Tibet of India’, I realised, definitely had a lot to teach me on the Ladakhi ways of reasoning than I’d seemed to have come prepared for!

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Want to make the most of your Ladakh trip? Visit our website to book your stay in one or more of the 141 verified Homestays in Ladakh.

About the author: Elita is Nondescript. Nonchalant. Observer. Witty. Sarcastic. Skinny. Nomadic Thunker. Square Peg. Sporadic Blogger. Solo Traveller. Blogs at nomadicthunker.blogspot.in; skinnygenus.blogspot.com. Tweets @NomadicThunker.

Tag: Homestays in Ladakh

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